Monday, February 4, 2008

The art of getting lost

Where are we?

Did you check the map?

Can you hand me the guide book?

Did we pass this an hour ago, or was that 15 minutes ago?

I’ve been in Singapore for two days. That is 48 hours, at least 10 of which spent in confusion.

Getting lost in Singapore is not neccessarily a bad thing.

With so many things to see, I would call the last few days "explorative meandering" rather than constantly getting lost.

Getting lost is all about falling upon unique experiences not outlined in a guide book or found online.

CHINA TOWN

A traditional Singapore started off our day with a breakfast of Kaya toast (bread with butter and coconut jam), a very runny egg and cup of tea at Ya Kun Kaya Toast.

With full stomachs, we began our hunt for a new hostel. (The hotel in the red light district was nice, but a little sketchy.)

After circling the block for 15 minutes, we discovered A Traveller’s Rest-Stop hostel on Teck Lim Rd had been shut down. (The second time our not so trusty guidebook had let us down in one month.)

With a look of dismay, Adelaide and I began to look for other options.

That is when my first explorative meanderings led me to Paul – a Liverpool man turned New Zealander who had stopped over in Singapore for a night on his way home. Adelaide and I invited him on our quest to find a cheap hostel.

LITTLE INDIA

The scents of incense, jasmine and curries filled the air. Bright saris beckoned from the store windows.

Pulling ourselves away from the bollywood-style music emitting from the streets, we stumbled upon an affordable hostel (only $20 Singapore dollars a night) called The InnCrowd Backpacker’s Hostel located in the heart of Little India on Dunlop Street.

We were in luck – enough beds for all. Paul shared lunch with us in Geylang where he told us about his plans to start his own business in New Zealand. Despite only having met him hours before, Paul explained his plans to open an alternative fitness center. He also revealed his passion for helping kids with difficult pasts. He told me this center will hopefully one day include programs to help troubled kids. (Good luck to you Paul.)

This time our random meanderings had gained us a friend for a moment. Traveling brings the most unlikely people together. (Read more about Little India later this week.)

CLARKE QUAY

After a few hours, Adelaide and I said good bye to Paul, leaving us to more meandering. We set off for an area near the Singapore River known as Clarke Quay (pronounced "key" not "kay," thank you Adelaide).

After walking in circles looking for the Singapore History Museum, we learned it had been demolished long before we arrived.

In our explorative meandering I spotted a sign advertising River Cruises (something outlined in the guidebook). After two days of constant walking, both of us agreed some sitting down time was more than overdue.

The cruise was well worth it. I had not realized how westernized Singapore was, yet at the same time how unique. Parts of the boat trip reminded me of Paris, others San Francisco, and others London.

For $18 Singapore dollars Adelaide and I were able to see parts of the city we would have never found on our own.

TURKISH DELIGHT

One benefit of traveling far away from home is the ability to eat dessert for dinner.

Still full of Chinese food from Geylang Road earlier in the day, Adelaide and I decided ice cream would be a great alternative to dinner.

While on our way to Haagen Daaz, I spotted a Turkish ice cream stand. Adelaide’s eyes were wide. She moved forward, drawn by the small cart with silver bells hanging over gold-colored lids.

I had never even heard of Turkish ice cream. To Adelaide, this was the best random encounter she could have imagined.

Turkish ice cream is very different than American-style ice cream. Instead of a milky or icy feel, this feels more sticky and creamy. When Turkish ice cream melts it stretches instead of pooling into watery goo. The result? Melted Turkish ice cream taste almost better than when it is frozen.

An obviously Turkish man with a small vest, decorated with gold thread put on a small red hat and grabbed a long handled shovel-like spoon with gusto.

With a hum, he stabbed the cylinder of ice cream and placed it on an empty cup with a smile. He then shook his head, dropped the cream its container and scooped up a sizeable amount. With the ice cream still on the end of the shovel, he banged the bells above his head.

I cringed. What was he doing? Wouldn’t the ice cream fall off?

Then I realized one other characteristic of Turkish ice cream is its stickiness. The glob stuck until he mystically plopped the scoop into my bowl.

I learned part of charm of Turkish ice cream is the show.

As an international city of immigrants, part of experiencing Singapore is dappling into the customs and products of the minority communities.

The main difference between Hong Kong and Singapore?

Singapore has street signs, but no tourist directories. Hong Kong has tourist directories, but hardly any street signs. The result?

I get lost in both cities. Well, maybe I got lost in Singapore a little bit more.

*Images from top to bottom: 1) The dragon-seahorse stands as the symbol of modern Singapore. 2) A couple sits on the banks of the Singapore River in Clarke Quay. 3) One of the many bridges cupsing the Singapore River. 4) The Turkish ice cream man scooping up some strawberry ice cream in Clarke Quay.

8 comments:

Anonymous said...

the statue standing at the mouth of the singapore river is called a merlion. read here for a better description.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merlion
its nothing to do with modern singapore but rather bears reference to singapore's connection with the seas and the legend of its founding.

Unknown said...

Hey, can you bring me back some Turkish ice cream?

This is everything the blog should be. Your personal story, with a little history and perspective mixed in, and some great pictures. It's a compelling and interesting read. Nice work! I'm glad you're enjoying yourself.

In addition to the sights and sounds, I'll be curious to read your observations of the people of Singapore. Do they more reserved, because of the country's strict laws, etc.?

Grace said...

Yeah for traveling!!! Jess I am so excessively jealous! I wonder if after all your time abroad you will be giving up your life to travel with me! or at least some of it!!! I cannot wait till I get my fist assignment and you can come experience it with me! I love reading your blogs because it makes me feel like i get to experience some of your trip with you!

Jessica E. Davis said...

Thanks Tony. I did not double check my cations because of limited time in the Internet Cafe. I appreciate the correction. I will have to e-mail the guide who took us to that spot because that is what he told us about the merlion.

Aleida Auld said...

Lovely lady,

What rich descriptions, especially of foods and textures. It's around dinner time, and my stomach is aroused. :)

I received your postcard today. Thank you for thinking of me.

Love you always,
Aleida

Anonymous said...

Isn't it amazing how international cities can be? Here in the United States, I don't think we realize the scope of it. Sure, we have China town or little Italy, but nowhere (at least that I know of) here can you walk down the street and find a Turkish ice cream stand! Singapore sounds amazing, and you are certainly giving me some major geography lessons while I read your blog. Have fun traveling! :)

Christine said...

I love the idea of you happily getting lost in another country. There's actually something desirable in that because you end up seeing so much more of local life than you thought. I've meandered the streets of Berlin just for fun a few times and have stumbled across some great, cute little places. I really enjoyed your post. Hopefully you can keep us all updated while away from Hong Kong.

P.S. I brag about you to everyone I talk to. :)

Anonymous said...

In relation to the Merlion controversy:

The Wikipedia information is not very useful. The merlion was designed as an emblem of Singapore in 1964 by a member of the souvenir commitee for the Singaporean Tourist Promotion Board. While it was designed to symbolise Singapore's mythological founding the merlion itself is a modern invention.

Or perhaps more accurately it is a modern symbol of the legends surrounding Singapore's founding.

http://www.visitsingapore.com/publish/stbportal/en/home/about_singapore/the_merlion/history_and_origins.html

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